I arrived Saturday night, and have been here for 4 days. I had so many things I wanted to write about and now that I am actually sitting in the Internet cafe my mind is fuzzy...
Where to begin...? First off, Africa is amazing. It is so much more than I anticipated and expected. I have always heard of the immense beauty, the graciousness of the people, the immense power and love that eminates through the culture, but until one experiences this first hand it is impossible to imagine.
I stepped off the plane and was immediately overwhelmed with the fresh air that smelled sweet and peaceful. Peaceful is a good word; in Swahili they say salama often, which means peace. Peace of the spirit, within this country of poverty and struggle.
Of course not all is so wonderous. I have been here four days and have heard many horror stories. The women cook their food outside on the fire, and sometimes the playing children fall into the fire. A friend of mine volunteers at the hospital and tells of children covered in burns who have no pain medication and little clean bandages. HIV is of course very prevalent here, but not as much as in some Sub-Saharan countries -- Tanzania has about a 10% infection rate. Often the infected boys/men tell the young girls "Don't worry, its not bad, just like the flu..." to get the girls to sleep with them. The stigma of HIV is lessening and several of the volunteers are working in their placements with women affected with HIV. Many of the children at my school do not have parents, as they have lost both of them to HIV. It is part of life here.
About my placement:
I love my school!!! I am at the Kilimahuwea Informal School for boys and girls. Essentially kids are given a test after primary school. If they pass this test they are allowed to continue to the government-run secondary school. If they fail this test they are never allowed to continue with formal education. They are permitted to attend private school but most families cannot afford this. They have one chance to take the test. If they have a bad day, a bad sleep the night before, are sick, whatever, it makes no difference. If they fail the test that essentially cuts off most of their opportunities. Most become street kids, hustlers, beggers and/or get infected with HIV.
Kilimahewa was built 3 years ago to try to offset this terrible fate. The children
are given classes in math, English, communication (conversation), geography, etc. There are three sections: a nursery school where they sing a lot of songs and learn their basic elements; the 'secondary' school which contains boys and girls ages 14-18; and a technical training program that teaches girls to sew. I am currently working with the sewing girls and will do a bit of teaching in the nursery as well. I love it! I love these girls already and I have only been teaching for two days! They are so eager to learn, loving, gentle, kind, witty, and have a hysterical sense of humor! We've been working on practical English language skills, those that relate to sewing, selling products, complex numbers, etc. I also do math with them, again as a practical tool for their trade. Everything is designed to help them go into the work force and make enough money to support themselves and their families. At least these kids are given a fighting chance. English is the key to success -- if they have good language skills they can work for a tour company, in a hotel, in a store, etc. If they cannot speak English their fate is infinitely more grim.
And the little children! So affectionate! They run up to the mzumi (white person) and are astonished at what they see! Today I had a little girl running her hands all over my face laughing and touching me in glee (she also loved the shininess of my earrings I'm sure).
Mama Fortunata is the head of Kilimahewa school and she is fantastic. She makes clothes for all the volunteers, and yesterday took us on a trip to town so we could pick out our own fabric for her to sew. Of course she charges us for this, but she takes the money and puts it back into the school, therefore I am at one of the very privilaged placements; the girls have several sewing machines (run by their feet, no electricity), there are desks and a few books and even a white-erase board. By most Tanzanian standards this is quite rich, and I am privilaged to be here (actually, one of the main woman who runs CCS Kilimanjaro owns the property that the school is on, so this is her pet project -- hence I think this is why I am here... the last volunteer was a principle of a school in LA Unified, so I suspect she handpicks the most experienced volunteers to go to this school so the kids have an extra special education).
In actuality the government schools can be quite horrific. Corporal punishment is very much in use, and yesterday one of my roommates witnessed such abuse that she came home from her placement in tears. TIA.
A word on pictures: we are asked not to take pictures of the children at our placement until we have been there a few weeks and I am abiding by this strictly. On Monday we toured a local (quite poor) village, and I was horrified by the rude behaviour of some of the new volunteers. They were gathering up the African children and sticking their cameras in their faces taking numerous pictures. Granted the little kids LOVE this and giggle and laugh at all the attention, but to me it screams of yet more Western exploitation... "Oh look at the cute little black African kids... let me take some pictures so I can show everyone at home."
Now granted these kids ARE completely adorable and they do love the attention of the mzuli, but does this make it right? They are not zoo animals (not that I support zoos anyways, but you know what I mean). For those of you who know me well, I was fuming and quite upset, and even bitched out one particularly offensive girl (who was also wearing a lowcut tanktop while revealing her bra when we were specifically asked to dress respectfully and modestly, and cover our shoulders). Some people are completely daft and culturally insensitive -- so I was fuming and I ranted to my friend who is on his third volunteer trip, and I got it off my chest.
But I do love it here. There is a sense of peace, a sense of being home. Tanzania is where homo sapiens is believed to have originated, and perhaps this is why everyone who steps foot in this country doesn't want to leave. I am already regretting my mere 4 weeks in this country (shortened from 5 due to the struggles my friend Kim is going through) -- I'd love to be here for 4 months, but there is always next summer to return.
Asante sana. Niwasiliane!
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Friday, July 24, 2009
Some pictures...
Some pics of Vienna / Berlin on Flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/40641283@N03/sets/72157621810532224/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/40641283@N03/sets/72157621810532224/
Okay, just a bit on Berlin...
In my pictures you'll see some of the WWII Jewish Holocaust Memorial, which is called Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden Europas, or 'Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe.'
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Memorial_to_the_Murdered_Jews_of_Europe
Germany is trying to come to terms with the actions they committed in WWII, and this process is quite fascinating. Instead of a general memorial to the victims of concentration camps, the city of Berlin is giving each persecuted group their own memorial (Jews, gypsies, homosexuals). The Jewish community did not want to only commemorate the victems of the concentration camps because many more Jews have suffered in Europe then were in the gas chambers, hence the title.
The memorial was brilliantly designed; a series of silver colums of various lengths that inhabit a large city block. One walks through these columns , becoming almost lost in the depth of it, yet there is always a clear view to the end (the columns run symmetrically north/south/east/west, like NY City blocks). Decidedly abstract, walking through those columns gives the conscious visitor a sense of desolation and loneliness, yet the message does not intend to hit you on the head (like the list of fallen soldiers at the Vietnam War Memorial).
Note the use of the word 'murder' in the title -- this is Germans trying to be very honest and truthful with what happened, believing that is the only way to find any sort of reconciliation with the past.
Another poignent project; a researcher is compiling lists of names of murdered victims and what apartments they lived in. When this is located a small plaque with their names is installed in the sidewalk outside the apartment, so these people are personified and recognized, and not forgotton.
I also saw the place where Hitler committed suicide in his bunker during the final days. Berliners have made it into a parking lot. A fitting decision.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Memorial_to_the_Murdered_Jews_of_Europe
Germany is trying to come to terms with the actions they committed in WWII, and this process is quite fascinating. Instead of a general memorial to the victims of concentration camps, the city of Berlin is giving each persecuted group their own memorial (Jews, gypsies, homosexuals). The Jewish community did not want to only commemorate the victems of the concentration camps because many more Jews have suffered in Europe then were in the gas chambers, hence the title.
The memorial was brilliantly designed; a series of silver colums of various lengths that inhabit a large city block. One walks through these columns , becoming almost lost in the depth of it, yet there is always a clear view to the end (the columns run symmetrically north/south/east/west, like NY City blocks). Decidedly abstract, walking through those columns gives the conscious visitor a sense of desolation and loneliness, yet the message does not intend to hit you on the head (like the list of fallen soldiers at the Vietnam War Memorial).
Note the use of the word 'murder' in the title -- this is Germans trying to be very honest and truthful with what happened, believing that is the only way to find any sort of reconciliation with the past.
Another poignent project; a researcher is compiling lists of names of murdered victims and what apartments they lived in. When this is located a small plaque with their names is installed in the sidewalk outside the apartment, so these people are personified and recognized, and not forgotton.
I also saw the place where Hitler committed suicide in his bunker during the final days. Berliners have made it into a parking lot. A fitting decision.
Plane ride to Kilimanjaro in 16 hours...
At the moment I am in Amsterdam getting ready for my flight tomorrow morning at 10am (ish). Among the items on my to-do list for this evening: laundry; print resume and scan of doctoral diploma (thanks for that pops) needed to prove to the Tanzanian Immigration officials that I have the skills and qualifications to work/volunteer in the country; buy a sweatshirt (I am concerned that I will be cold at night in Tanzania); call parents (make mommy feel better); write postcards; eat a good meal (with my crazy dietary issues who knows what I'll be able to eat once I am there); review Swahili note cards; commence malaria medication; SLEEEEEEEP!
SUMMARY OF TRIP THUS FAR...
Admittedly things got off to a hectic start. After throwing the July 4 bash (thanks again Tim for coming out to be with me and do the craziness once more!!!!) I had a week filled with pages of to-do lists, little sleep, and sensory (emotional) overload. Once I finally arrived in Vienna (midnight Monday July 13) I said hello Katja and Sofia, took a shower and fell asleep for the next 16 hours.
Vienna was fantastic. Talking with Katja till 3am every night, spending quality time getting to know Sofia (her 5 year old daughter), walking around this magnificent historical wonderland... what more could I ask for?
Following this I spent 3 glorious days in Berlin. What a city! Inexpensive, gritty, raw, REAL, filled with amazing artists and intellectuals and amazing encounters. To say everyone that moves to Berlin falls immediately in love with it is not an understatement. My friend put it best -- it has all the vibrancy and energy of a huge city (it is several times larger than Paris) but it is as laid back as a small city (like Montreal or Barcelona). At some point I will write more on my observations of the culture, politics, history, etc. but will leave that for when I return to the states. Sadly, I met a great conversationalist 1 hour before I had to leave for the airport. Hopefully we will continue our conversation in the future.
I've uploaded some photos to Flicker (I'll attempt to put some directly on the blog as well though since I have yet to explore that particular feature it may not work in the remaining 40 minutes that I have on this computer)...
Well, this is it. Tomorrow at this time I'll be in Tanzania and I don't know how much internet access I'll have. Yes friends I'll take tons of pictures and send you each a postcard from there! At the risk of being redunant, thank you once again for your support. Everyone in my life / path has been incredible, including the many friends I have made on this trip [its awesome, typical backpacker initial conversation... 'Hey, where are you heading next...? I'm going to Prague/Budapest/Amsterdam/Barcelona, what about you? Oh, I'm leaving for Africa on Saturday] Hahaha! I loved the reactions =)
SUMMARY OF TRIP THUS FAR...
Admittedly things got off to a hectic start. After throwing the July 4 bash (thanks again Tim for coming out to be with me and do the craziness once more!!!!) I had a week filled with pages of to-do lists, little sleep, and sensory (emotional) overload. Once I finally arrived in Vienna (midnight Monday July 13) I said hello Katja and Sofia, took a shower and fell asleep for the next 16 hours.
Vienna was fantastic. Talking with Katja till 3am every night, spending quality time getting to know Sofia (her 5 year old daughter), walking around this magnificent historical wonderland... what more could I ask for?
Following this I spent 3 glorious days in Berlin. What a city! Inexpensive, gritty, raw, REAL, filled with amazing artists and intellectuals and amazing encounters. To say everyone that moves to Berlin falls immediately in love with it is not an understatement. My friend put it best -- it has all the vibrancy and energy of a huge city (it is several times larger than Paris) but it is as laid back as a small city (like Montreal or Barcelona). At some point I will write more on my observations of the culture, politics, history, etc. but will leave that for when I return to the states. Sadly, I met a great conversationalist 1 hour before I had to leave for the airport. Hopefully we will continue our conversation in the future.
I've uploaded some photos to Flicker (I'll attempt to put some directly on the blog as well though since I have yet to explore that particular feature it may not work in the remaining 40 minutes that I have on this computer)...
Well, this is it. Tomorrow at this time I'll be in Tanzania and I don't know how much internet access I'll have. Yes friends I'll take tons of pictures and send you each a postcard from there! At the risk of being redunant, thank you once again for your support. Everyone in my life / path has been incredible, including the many friends I have made on this trip [its awesome, typical backpacker initial conversation... 'Hey, where are you heading next...? I'm going to Prague/Budapest/Amsterdam/Barcelona, what about you? Oh, I'm leaving for Africa on Saturday] Hahaha! I loved the reactions =)
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Volunteer assignment...
Somehow I got it in my head that I would be teaching young kids, but I just received my official assignment yesterday and I'll actually be working with teenagers (mostly girls) 14-18 at the Kilimahewa School. At first this made me incredibly nervous (somehow 5-10 year olds seem much more manageable than teenagers), but as with all of the elements related to this trip, once I wrap my head around things and sit with it for a bit, I am able to embrace the challenge with confidence.
KILIMAHEWA SCHOOL
Informal School –
Educational activities for teenagers
General Information
Mission and Needs of the Partner Program
Kilimahewa is a community-based organization founded on September 28, 2006. Kilimahewa is owned by the Kilimahewa community members who have cooperated to form a Local CBO under the “Company Limited by Guarantee”
It was initially known as a local brew drinking center for the local community. It is now a learning center for the Kilimahewa community specifically focused for poor women in the village, orphans and youth, and vulnerable children. Vulnerable children are the marginalized and disadvantaged group in socio-economic areas such as street children working in plantations, industries, households and other hardship environments and include children whose parents are living with HIV and/or AIDS and are incapacitated thus rendering them unable to engage in gainful activities.
Currently there are around 100 students, of which at least 80% attend informal education at Kilimahewa regularly. The average age is 14-18 years. 90% of the students are girls and 10% are boys. These kids have struggled to complete elementary education and did not have the chance to continue with O level education (secondary school/ high school) due to their orphan or vulnerable status.
- Encourage and praise the children while also enforcing rules of good behavior.
- Teaching daily classes including English, life skills, sexual health, math and geography.
- Creating class activities/games
- Introducing/facilitating recreational activities (sporting programs, games, music, etc)
- Initiate projects or programs (i.e. helping kids put together a play)
- Participate in initiatives geared towards improvement in community education.
- Interact with students and teachers on a personal level
- Talking and teaching about your home country
Goals for the Volunteer from the Partner Program
Long-Term
Kilimahewa strives to provide informal education and life skills for youth who would not otherwise have the opportunity to attend school.
Short-Term
Volunteers will be supporting instruction in a variety of subjects, including English, geography, mathematics, and life skills. Because of the language barrier, patience and the ability to speak slowly and clearly are important. Encouragement and positive reinforcement will be essential in building students’ confidence.
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Obama's Speeh in Africa (July 11)
This man knows how to speak! Here are some excerpts:
"As for America and the West, our commitment must be measured by more than just the dollars we spend. I have pledged substantial increases in our foreign assistance, which is in Africa's interest and America's. But the true sign of success is not whether we are a source of aid that helps people scrape by — it is whether we are partners in building the capacity for transformational change..."
"As Africans reach for this promise, America will be more responsible in extending our hand. By cutting costs that go to Western consultants and administration, we will put more resources in the hands of those who need it, while training people to do more for themselves. That is why our $3.5 billion food security initiative is focused on new methods and technologies for farmers — not simply sending American producers or goods to Africa. Aid is not an end in itself. The purpose of foreign assistance must be creating the conditions where it is no longer needed..."
"One area that holds out both undeniable peril and extraordinary promise is energy. Africa gives off less greenhouse gas than any other part of the world, but it is the most threatened by climate change. A warming planet will spread disease, shrink water resources and deplete crops, creating conditions that produce more famine and conflict. All of us — particularly the developed world — have a responsibility to slow these trends — through mitigation, and by changing the way that we use energy..."
"Now let me be clear: Africa is not the crude caricature of a continent at war. But for far too many Africans, conflict is a part of life, as constant as the sun. There are wars over land and wars over resources. And it is still far too easy for those without conscience to manipulate whole communities into fighting among faiths and tribes.
These conflicts are a millstone around Africa's neck. We all have many identities — of tribe and ethnicity; of religion and nationality. But defining oneself in opposition to someone who belongs to a different tribe, or who worships a different prophet, has no place in the 21st century. Africa's diversity should be a source of strength, not a cause for division. We are all God's children. We all share common aspirations — to live in peace and security; to access education and opportunity; to love our families, our communities, and our faith. That is our common humanity..."
http://www.google.com/hostednews/ap/article/ALeqM5iXHQkTrA9IUUQBC9WHPK3ZMK_ukAD99C8L5G0
"As for America and the West, our commitment must be measured by more than just the dollars we spend. I have pledged substantial increases in our foreign assistance, which is in Africa's interest and America's. But the true sign of success is not whether we are a source of aid that helps people scrape by — it is whether we are partners in building the capacity for transformational change..."
"As Africans reach for this promise, America will be more responsible in extending our hand. By cutting costs that go to Western consultants and administration, we will put more resources in the hands of those who need it, while training people to do more for themselves. That is why our $3.5 billion food security initiative is focused on new methods and technologies for farmers — not simply sending American producers or goods to Africa. Aid is not an end in itself. The purpose of foreign assistance must be creating the conditions where it is no longer needed..."
"One area that holds out both undeniable peril and extraordinary promise is energy. Africa gives off less greenhouse gas than any other part of the world, but it is the most threatened by climate change. A warming planet will spread disease, shrink water resources and deplete crops, creating conditions that produce more famine and conflict. All of us — particularly the developed world — have a responsibility to slow these trends — through mitigation, and by changing the way that we use energy..."
"Now let me be clear: Africa is not the crude caricature of a continent at war. But for far too many Africans, conflict is a part of life, as constant as the sun. There are wars over land and wars over resources. And it is still far too easy for those without conscience to manipulate whole communities into fighting among faiths and tribes.
These conflicts are a millstone around Africa's neck. We all have many identities — of tribe and ethnicity; of religion and nationality. But defining oneself in opposition to someone who belongs to a different tribe, or who worships a different prophet, has no place in the 21st century. Africa's diversity should be a source of strength, not a cause for division. We are all God's children. We all share common aspirations — to live in peace and security; to access education and opportunity; to love our families, our communities, and our faith. That is our common humanity..."
http://www.google.com/host
Friday, July 10, 2009
Feelings, nothing more than feelings...
I am QUITE emotional right now. This trip represents so much to me: getting away from the stresses of my life and career, using my teaching and skills to give back to humanity, letting go of negative thoughts and past relationships, embracing solitude and fortitude of the self, and being the best friend I can possibly be to two of the most important women in my life. I have been enjoying intense conversations with my friends Suzie and Dave, analyzing my ever-present existential dilemma / search...
*What does it mean to be a human being in the 21st century?
*What does it mean to be an artist?
*What does it mean to live in the luxury of the West while 1 out of 6 people are in poverty and don't have enough to eat globally?
*What responsibilities do we have to make this world a better place and how much of that responsibility do I want to take on?
These questions consume my soul, and until I find those answers I won't know truly who I am or who I am meant to be. Thanks for the inspiring conversations guys, I always appreciate them! =)
GETTING READY
I am very excited to volunteer!!!! I bought a book of Raffi songs (I was going to bring nursery rhymes, but the language barely makes sense to me, much less trying to teach it to non-native English speakers). How on earth was I going to explain "Humpty Dumpty" or "The Old Woman that Lived in a Shoe"...? Raffi is much more appropriate to the task at hand: "Thanks for the sun in the sky, thanks for the clouds so high..."
My mother's friend had the brilliant idea of my bringing a harmonica! My guitar skills are sadly lacking, and there is no way I would drag a guitar through this crazy trip but a harmonica sounds perfect! I've been working a bit on my Swahili, but will upload the language CD's to my IPOD and do concentrated study over the next two weeks. I do have about 20 hours of plane time to get through!
That same friend urged me strongly to try to fit all my belongings into a single carry-on pack. For those of you that know me, that is a herculean task, but I am going to try my darndest! My nightmare would be losing my luggage, and with all the flights I am taking unfortunately that is a real possibility. The idea of stripping down my life to the bare essentials is quite appealing, so I am confident I will live up to this task!
My mom and I are going shopping right now to pick up my last-minute necessities. I must say she has been great about all this -- a slight panicky conversation now and again, but for the most part she has been incredibly brave about sending her baby girl to Africa.
In a moment of inspiration, I broke down and bought a Global Network BlackBerry yesterday. With the rebates and my Verizon credit it was less than $99, and this way mom can email/text me anytime she wants and receive a relatively timely response (Verizon assures me this will work in Tanzania, but we'll see, hahaha)! Seriously, this was a brilliant idea, and a steal! Unlimited email and web surfing anywhere in the world for $65/month; I feel happy because it will also take the edge off the loneliness when it inevitably seeps into certain moments. When feeling sad and disconnected, post on Facebook! =)
So friends, fear not, I am well within reach over the next two months. In fact, incoming texts are only 5 cents each, so keep texting me as if I'm still in Jerz!
*What does it mean to be a human being in the 21st century?
*What does it mean to be an artist?
*What does it mean to live in the luxury of the West while 1 out of 6 people are in poverty and don't have enough to eat globally?
*What responsibilities do we have to make this world a better place and how much of that responsibility do I want to take on?
These questions consume my soul, and until I find those answers I won't know truly who I am or who I am meant to be. Thanks for the inspiring conversations guys, I always appreciate them! =)
GETTING READY
I am very excited to volunteer!!!! I bought a book of Raffi songs (I was going to bring nursery rhymes, but the language barely makes sense to me, much less trying to teach it to non-native English speakers). How on earth was I going to explain "Humpty Dumpty" or "The Old Woman that Lived in a Shoe"...? Raffi is much more appropriate to the task at hand: "Thanks for the sun in the sky, thanks for the clouds so high..."
My mother's friend had the brilliant idea of my bringing a harmonica! My guitar skills are sadly lacking, and there is no way I would drag a guitar through this crazy trip but a harmonica sounds perfect! I've been working a bit on my Swahili, but will upload the language CD's to my IPOD and do concentrated study over the next two weeks. I do have about 20 hours of plane time to get through!
That same friend urged me strongly to try to fit all my belongings into a single carry-on pack. For those of you that know me, that is a herculean task, but I am going to try my darndest! My nightmare would be losing my luggage, and with all the flights I am taking unfortunately that is a real possibility. The idea of stripping down my life to the bare essentials is quite appealing, so I am confident I will live up to this task!
My mom and I are going shopping right now to pick up my last-minute necessities. I must say she has been great about all this -- a slight panicky conversation now and again, but for the most part she has been incredibly brave about sending her baby girl to Africa.
In a moment of inspiration, I broke down and bought a Global Network BlackBerry yesterday. With the rebates and my Verizon credit it was less than $99, and this way mom can email/text me anytime she wants and receive a relatively timely response (Verizon assures me this will work in Tanzania, but we'll see, hahaha)! Seriously, this was a brilliant idea, and a steal! Unlimited email and web surfing anywhere in the world for $65/month; I feel happy because it will also take the edge off the loneliness when it inevitably seeps into certain moments. When feeling sad and disconnected, post on Facebook! =)
So friends, fear not, I am well within reach over the next two months. In fact, incoming texts are only 5 cents each, so keep texting me as if I'm still in Jerz!
Itinerary... 3 continents in 8 weeks
This trip has certainly morphed into an experience of a lifetime! Originally I was just planning to go to Africa for 5 weeks -- 4 weeks volunteering and 1 week for traveling and experiencing the culture in other parts of the country. When I realized a layover in Amsterdam was inevitable, I decided to visit one of my dearest friends, Katja (who now lives in Vienna with her darling daughter Sofia). Katja has had quite a difficult time in her life these past few years, and the idea of going to spend time with her and her daughter in just a few days warms my spirit! And with a $50 plane ticket from Amsterdam -- Vienna, how could I resist?
Following this I will go to Berlin for a few days to check out the music scene and meet with some composers and academics in my field. Then back to Amsterdam for my flight to Tanzania on July 25.
My original intention to stay in Tanzania for 5 weeks has been affected by the life difficulties of another dear friend, my oldest friend Kim (whom I have known since I was the tender age of 2 playing naked in the sandbox!). Kim is living in Seoul, Korea -- she was pregnant and intending to move back to the states with her husband before the baby was born, but went into premature labor (2 months early) only a few days before her flight! Her daughter was born and spent several weeks of her life in the NICU, and now is thought to have a genetic disorder called Tuberous Sclerosis Complex (a routine MRI discovered a mass on her heart that is a type of tumor that can indicate TSC). TSC means the body's mechanism to stop tumor growth does not work; it is a rare, multi-system genetic disease that causes benign tumors to grow in the brain and on other vital organs such as the kidneys, heart, eyes, lungs and skin.
Needless to say, she is going through quite a difficult time, especially since her husband and family are back in the states and unable to travel to be with her. Out of necessity she had to sign another year contract with her job (teaching through the Department of Defense), so now she is living alone with an adorable 3 year old (Miss Emily) and now a potentially troubled newborn. =(
My heart broke when I learned of her situation, so I've decided to cut one week out of my Tanzania trip (not my volunteering time, but the extra week I was going to spend traveling), and instead travel to Seoul Korea to be with her and help out with the kids for a couple of weeks. 3 continents in 8 weeks, I am READY (gulp)!
TRAVEL DATES
July 13 – July 25: Vienna, Berlin
July 25 – August 22: Volunteering for 4 weeks in Tanzania
August 24 – September 6: Seoul, Korea
September 7: Return home
September 8 – 12: SLEEP
September 13: Start teaching =)
Following this I will go to Berlin for a few days to check out the music scene and meet with some composers and academics in my field. Then back to Amsterdam for my flight to Tanzania on July 25.
My original intention to stay in Tanzania for 5 weeks has been affected by the life difficulties of another dear friend, my oldest friend Kim (whom I have known since I was the tender age of 2 playing naked in the sandbox!). Kim is living in Seoul, Korea -- she was pregnant and intending to move back to the states with her husband before the baby was born, but went into premature labor (2 months early) only a few days before her flight! Her daughter was born and spent several weeks of her life in the NICU, and now is thought to have a genetic disorder called Tuberous Sclerosis Complex (a routine MRI discovered a mass on her heart that is a type of tumor that can indicate TSC). TSC means the body's mechanism to stop tumor growth does not work; it is a rare, multi-system genetic disease that causes benign tumors to grow in the brain and on other vital organs such as the kidneys, heart, eyes, lungs and skin.
Needless to say, she is going through quite a difficult time, especially since her husband and family are back in the states and unable to travel to be with her. Out of necessity she had to sign another year contract with her job (teaching through the Department of Defense), so now she is living alone with an adorable 3 year old (Miss Emily) and now a potentially troubled newborn. =(
My heart broke when I learned of her situation, so I've decided to cut one week out of my Tanzania trip (not my volunteering time, but the extra week I was going to spend traveling), and instead travel to Seoul Korea to be with her and help out with the kids for a couple of weeks. 3 continents in 8 weeks, I am READY (gulp)!
TRAVEL DATES
July 13 – July 25: Vienna, Berlin
July 25 – August 22: Volunteering for 4 weeks in Tanzania
August 24 – September 6: Seoul, Korea
September 7: Return home
September 8 – 12: SLEEP
September 13: Start teaching =)
A brief social history of Tanzania...
(paraphrased from "Tanzania: The Land and Its People" by John Ndembwike)
Tanzania is one of the most peaceful countries on the African continent. The nation underwent radical transformation when the government launched a policy of ujamaa in the late 60s. This was one of the boldest experiments in social engineering in post-colonial Africa, and one of the most ambitious in the entire Third World.
Previously a British colony, Great Britain (the country's ruling colonial power from 1919–1961) had devoted virtually no resources to building government-sponsored schools, hospitals or social welfare programs. In a nation twice the size of California, there were fewer than one thousand miles of paved roads.
The policy of ujamaa (which means familyhood in Kiswahili) did not transform Tanzania into a socialist society overnight, but it fundamentally changed the way people lived and looked at each other, and how the economy was run. During the early experimental stage, President Nyerere instilled in the people of Tanzania egalitarian values and ideals which shaped Tanzania's national character, transforming the country into an egalitarian society by which the vast majority of Tanzanians viewed each other as equal human beings. Millions of Tanzanians began calling each other "Ndugu," meaning "brother" or "sister" to underscore the nation's commitment to equality, and the believe that no human being was better than another.
This was in sharp contrast to the society of Tanzania's northern neighbor Kenya, where ruthless competition under capitalism literally transformed Kenya into a dog-eat-dog society (as many Tanzanians would state during the days of ujamaa). Kenyans angrily responded that Tanzania was a dog-eat-nothing society because the country had been impoverished by bankrupt socialist policies which failed to develop the economy. There is some truth in both statements.
During the socialist era, Nyerere succeeded in uniting Tanzanians into one people, an achievement probably without parallel on the continent. Tanzanians became so united that tribalism and racism were virtually banished from national life. The national language was Kiswahili, and speaking one's tribal language – let alone talking about one's tribal identity – was frowned upon. The people of Tanzania saw themselves as Tanzanians first, and not as Masaai, Gogo, Ngoni, Sukuma, etc...
The opposite exists in Kenya, and the contrast is glaring. Among Kenyans, the tribe comes first; a Kenyan is a Kikuyu before he is a Kenyan. As a result, tribal and regional rivalries are an accepted part of life in Kenya. Following the 2007 rigging of the Kenyan presidential election (by President Mwai Kibaki), ethnic violence erupted in the country; it was easy for Kenyans to murder and burn people alive simply because they did not belong to their tribe [this can tragically be seen throughout numerous countries on the African continent].
This kind of senseless violence is unthinkable in Tanzania, and Tanzanians are grateful the government did not unite with Kenya and the other East African countries under a federal government. They feared that the tribal disease that is endemic in Kenya and other East African countries (Uganda, Somalia, Rwanda) would spread to Tanzania. Thankfully, that has not happened.
However, it was during these days of socialism that Tanzania also suffered economically on an unprecedented scale. Nyerere committed to building schools, hospitals and other social institutions, yet borrowed heavily on the West to do so. While it is true that great achievements were made in terms of education and provision of social services (at one point Tanzania had the highest literacy rate in Africa and one of the highest in the world at over 90%), the socialist experiment was a glaring economic failure, resulting in massive food shortages during the late 70s and throughout the 80s. At one point, the World Bank made more loans per capita to Tanzania than to any other nation, but threatened to stop the flow of money unless drastic reforms were made.
Eventually, socialism was replaced by a capitalist system in the late 80s. Currently Tanzania is trying to evolve their economy through agriculture and tourism, though logistical problems, including harsh geography in terms of climate and physical barriers, are some of the biggest obstacles to economic development in Tanzania. Though they are making improvements, it is a slow process. Infrastructure in the country is severely lacking: the national railroad and airline have both gone out of business (a combination of bankruptcy and atrocious safety records). Only a few roads are paved and less than one percent of Tanzanians own cars.
Although globalization is gradually – and even radically – transforming the face of Tanzania and the lives of many people in the country, the vast majority of Tanzania still lives in abject poverty with little prospect for improvement in their lives. Professor Manning Marable of Columbia University wrote in 2007 of a visit he made to a school in Arusha, where 900 children were being taught by 17 overworked and underfunded teachers. '...scores of African children receive instruction in cattle stalls with dirt floors because schools lack enough classrooms. Fewer than half of the children have textbooks, pens or paper. Yet all the children appear eager to learn.'
Tanzania is also plagued with health problems that seriously compromise the country's economic development:
* The median life expectancy at birth is only 45 years for males, and 46.4 years for females. *Infant mortality rates remain astronomically high.
*Approximately 2 million Tanzanians are estimated to be HIV-positive or to have AIDS
Tanzania is one of the most peaceful countries on the African continent. The nation underwent radical transformation when the government launched a policy of ujamaa in the late 60s. This was one of the boldest experiments in social engineering in post-colonial Africa, and one of the most ambitious in the entire Third World.
Previously a British colony, Great Britain (the country's ruling colonial power from 1919–1961) had devoted virtually no resources to building government-sponsored schools, hospitals or social welfare programs. In a nation twice the size of California, there were fewer than one thousand miles of paved roads.
The policy of ujamaa (which means familyhood in Kiswahili) did not transform Tanzania into a socialist society overnight, but it fundamentally changed the way people lived and looked at each other, and how the economy was run. During the early experimental stage, President Nyerere instilled in the people of Tanzania egalitarian values and ideals which shaped Tanzania's national character, transforming the country into an egalitarian society by which the vast majority of Tanzanians viewed each other as equal human beings. Millions of Tanzanians began calling each other "Ndugu," meaning "brother" or "sister" to underscore the nation's commitment to equality, and the believe that no human being was better than another.
This was in sharp contrast to the society of Tanzania's northern neighbor Kenya, where ruthless competition under capitalism literally transformed Kenya into a dog-eat-dog society (as many Tanzanians would state during the days of ujamaa). Kenyans angrily responded that Tanzania was a dog-eat-nothing society because the country had been impoverished by bankrupt socialist policies which failed to develop the economy. There is some truth in both statements.
During the socialist era, Nyerere succeeded in uniting Tanzanians into one people, an achievement probably without parallel on the continent. Tanzanians became so united that tribalism and racism were virtually banished from national life. The national language was Kiswahili, and speaking one's tribal language – let alone talking about one's tribal identity – was frowned upon. The people of Tanzania saw themselves as Tanzanians first, and not as Masaai, Gogo, Ngoni, Sukuma, etc...
The opposite exists in Kenya, and the contrast is glaring. Among Kenyans, the tribe comes first; a Kenyan is a Kikuyu before he is a Kenyan. As a result, tribal and regional rivalries are an accepted part of life in Kenya. Following the 2007 rigging of the Kenyan presidential election (by President Mwai Kibaki), ethnic violence erupted in the country; it was easy for Kenyans to murder and burn people alive simply because they did not belong to their tribe [this can tragically be seen throughout numerous countries on the African continent].
This kind of senseless violence is unthinkable in Tanzania, and Tanzanians are grateful the government did not unite with Kenya and the other East African countries under a federal government. They feared that the tribal disease that is endemic in Kenya and other East African countries (Uganda, Somalia, Rwanda) would spread to Tanzania. Thankfully, that has not happened.
However, it was during these days of socialism that Tanzania also suffered economically on an unprecedented scale. Nyerere committed to building schools, hospitals and other social institutions, yet borrowed heavily on the West to do so. While it is true that great achievements were made in terms of education and provision of social services (at one point Tanzania had the highest literacy rate in Africa and one of the highest in the world at over 90%), the socialist experiment was a glaring economic failure, resulting in massive food shortages during the late 70s and throughout the 80s. At one point, the World Bank made more loans per capita to Tanzania than to any other nation, but threatened to stop the flow of money unless drastic reforms were made.
Eventually, socialism was replaced by a capitalist system in the late 80s. Currently Tanzania is trying to evolve their economy through agriculture and tourism, though logistical problems, including harsh geography in terms of climate and physical barriers, are some of the biggest obstacles to economic development in Tanzania. Though they are making improvements, it is a slow process. Infrastructure in the country is severely lacking: the national railroad and airline have both gone out of business (a combination of bankruptcy and atrocious safety records). Only a few roads are paved and less than one percent of Tanzanians own cars.
Although globalization is gradually – and even radically – transforming the face of Tanzania and the lives of many people in the country, the vast majority of Tanzania still lives in abject poverty with little prospect for improvement in their lives. Professor Manning Marable of Columbia University wrote in 2007 of a visit he made to a school in Arusha, where 900 children were being taught by 17 overworked and underfunded teachers. '...scores of African children receive instruction in cattle stalls with dirt floors because schools lack enough classrooms. Fewer than half of the children have textbooks, pens or paper. Yet all the children appear eager to learn.'
Tanzania is also plagued with health problems that seriously compromise the country's economic development:
* The median life expectancy at birth is only 45 years for males, and 46.4 years for females. *Infant mortality rates remain astronomically high.
*Approximately 2 million Tanzanians are estimated to be HIV-positive or to have AIDS
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